Barolo Brunate DOCG 2013 Ceretto

Ceretto's 2013 Barolo Brunate shows dark garnet luminosity with subtle hues of cooked brick at the rims. By appearance alone, this is a very inviting Barolo. The bouquet is a bit softer and more delicate in this vintage. The wine shows a beautiful side of the usually more potent and austere Brunate cru. Following in a similar theme, the mouthfeel is lightly layered and nuanced. The yielding tannins make this wine slightly more accessible, although it is also built for long aging should that be your preference. The wine is versatile and approachable in the medium term as well.

Ceretto farms a total of 130 hectares. The entire property is farmed organically and 60 hectares are also biodynamic. Ceretto makes wines in both the Barbaresco and the Barolo appellations and this puts them in a good position to judge the difficult 2014 season from both perspectives. They join in a chorus of voices telling me that 2014 was fine in Barbaresco but considerably more difficult in nearby Barolo. In fact, the Barolo single-vineyard expressions will not be produced in 2014.

Extremely perfumed and pretty with flowers, citrus fruit, and cherries. Full body, a super-refined center palate, polished and refined tannins and a long and subtle finish. A beauty. Classic style. Drink in 2020.

Leafy, tar and earth aromas and flavors give way to cherry, licorice and oak spice notes with a little air. Vibrant, full of fruit and perfume, with muscular tannins. Shows excellent length but patience is required. Best from 2022 through 2043. 1,080 cases made.

Like the Prapò, the Barolo Brunate is much less expressive than it was immediately after bottling. Gracious and super-classic in feel, the Brunate has a lot to offer. In the glass, the wine is delicate and sensual. Even so, its best days are far off into the future. The Brunate is the least expressive of Ceretto's 2013 Barolos today. Then again, that is Brunate.