Barolo DOCG Rocche di Castiglione 2017 Vietti

Vietti's mighty 2017 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione is extremely polished and sharp, showing the smallest details with microscope-like precision in this release of 3,512 bottles. Tart cherry fruit segues to spice, tarry smoke, licorice and a chiseled sense of minerality that adds ample volume and considerable focus. The wine displays alternating moments of dryness, with layers of cherry sweetness, and all this movement adds to the fluid, ever-changing nature of the bouquet. Vintage after vintage, this wine continues to push the boundaries for Barolo made in Castiglione Falletto.

There’s clarity and energy to this, offering sweet strawberries and watermelon with fresh-rose and sandalwood undertones. Full-bodied with plenty of tannins, which are ultra-fine and polished for the vintage, giving the overall impression of elegance and finesse. Long. Classy. Try after 2025.

Savory juniper, mint and floral aromas give way to cherry and strawberry flavors in this high-pitched red. Firms up, with refined, yet pointed tannins lining the lingering finish. Best from 2024 through 2036.

The 2017 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione shows all the signatures of this site, all turned up to the maximum. I am not sure I have ever tasted a Vietti Castiglione with this much heft. Super-ripe dark red fruit, rose petal, mocha, dried herbs and menthol all build in an ample, resonant Barolo. Readers should be prepared to cellar the 2017 for the next handful of years, perhaps longer. A whole range of floral and savory notes punctuates the explosive finish.