Brunello di Montalcino Le Lucere Riserva 2012 San Filippo

This wine pours from the bottle with deep, dark intensity. The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva le Lucére shows thick extraction and deep concentration of dark fruit, cherry marmalade and blackberry preserves. Black prune and dried fig also play supporting roles, with a strong showing by exotic spice and savory tobacco. This is a Big Brunello with two capital Bs. It ages in small oak barrel for 14 months and then does another 16 months of aging in botte grande. It shows thick textural richness in the mouth.

Wow. This is really fantastic with outstanding depth of fruit and ripe and silky tannins. So much blueberry and cedar character with hints of flowers. Full body, fine tannins and a fresh and clean finish. Lovely balance to this wine. Better after 2022 but already exciting to taste.

A broad, mouthfilling style, boasting black cherry, plum, leather, chocolate and spice aromas and flavors. A riper style, yet not soft, with more support from dense tannins than acidity. Finishes with a dusty aftertaste of tobacco and graphite. Best from 2021 through 2034.

Deep ruby-red; I’m not sure Brunello needs to be this deep in color. Rich, ripe aromas and flavors of fresh blackberry, red cherry pie and blueberry nectar are complemented by a strong dollop of vanilla. The finish is long, creamy and suave but will leave the hairs in your nostrils singed by considerable alcohol-derived heat (the label reports 15.5% alcohol, and you won’t have any trouble believing it). Despite its excesses, this is an outstanding wine. Personally, I much prefer the non-riserva Brunello Le Lucére, but I can see how some people might prefer this bigger, darker wine.