Chianti Cl. Vigna del Sorbo Gran Selezione DOCG 2017 Fontodi

The Fontodi 2017 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo is expressive, dark and thickly concentrated. I received my samples early and found that this wine was a little shy or slow to open in this early phase. If given extra time, the bouquet warms up to dark fruit, plum, rum cake and dried violet. I came back to the wine about two hours later and discovered a pretty note of crushed aspirin or carbon, with more crushed flower. The oak adds sweet spice and scorched earth, but these too will integrate with time. From a hot and dry vintage, I'd easily give this edition of Vigna del Sorbo a 15- or 20-year drinking window.

Powerful, tight red with currant and plum character. Hints of new wood and bark. Full-bodied with dark berries and hints of dark chocolate, as well as other dark fruit. Flavorful finish. Solid. Needs time to open. Better after 2022.

Ripe black cherry, plum and oak spice aromas and flavors are the hallmarks of this intense, polished red, which picks up iron and savory, balsamic elements on the lingering finish. This is balanced in a youthful way, needing time to absorb the oak. Best from 2022 through 2037.

The 2017 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Sorbo is a dense, packed wine. It is also surprisingly, almost shockingly backward. That is probably a good thing for its long-term aging prospects. Readers hoping to get an early glimpse into the 2017 before it shuts down may have a hard time doing that, as today acids and tannin dominate. I expect the 2017 will be stellar in another 4-5 years and drink well to age 25-30 if not longer. Proprietor Giovanni Manetti gave the 2017 18 months in barrique followed by 6 months in cask.