Chianti Classico Ris. DOCG Il Poggio 1977 Monsanto

The 1977 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio presents a more advanced profile than the 1982, with a softer and more ethereal personality in its caramel, worn-in leather, pine, mint, spices, dried fruits and macerated cherries. Its slightly oxidative notes are those of a fully mature wine, yet it possess notable depth and presence on the palate. Still, I would suggest drinking this wine over the next few years. The 1977 Il Poggio is a re-release directly from the estate. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2013. 

 My recent visit to Castello di Monsanto was memorable. In addition to the current releases, I had a chance to taste a few older vintages of the estate’s benchmark Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio. Monsanto is one of the small handful of estates to have kept a vast library of its past vintages, a few of which it re-releases every year to select customers. Needless to say, in today’s world of highly suspect collectible wines, the chance to buy impeccably stored older vintages of unquestioned provenance is a huge service to consumers. Kudos to proprietor Laura Bianchi and oenologist Andrea Giovannini. These are simply beautiful wines. Although Monsanto’s Chiantis are impressive, readers should not overlook the Nemo (Cabernet Sauvignon) which is stunning in both 2003 and 2004. Here the use of French oak seems to be much better suited to the grape, and the wines are breathtaking. Nemo is made from the Il Mulino vineyard, which was planted in 1976.

(90% sangiovese, 10% canaiolo nero and colorino del Valdarno; pH 3.3; total acidity 5.95 g/l; dry extract 32.5 g/l; 14% alcohol): Pale amber-red color. Aristocratic, highly complex nose hints at red plum, candied strawberry, tobacco, leather, licorice and dried flowers. Then fleshy and round on the palate, offering subtle red berry, chestnut and milk chocolate flavors. Finishes with sweet tannins and excellent grip and length. The early-season rain led many to conclude that this was a minor vintage, but I have always disagreed completely with this view. This was aged in chestnut barrels.